How the New Collection was born
Marta, CEO and Jewelry Designer of Burato, accompanies us on this journey to discover Pearls and their fascinating World, revealing the "Backstage" of the new Sweet Pearls collection.
Among surprising curiosities, innovative details and some precious useful advice, we will rediscover the Pearl in a new, fascinating light.
(Interviewer) Hi Marta, it's a pleasure to meet again! After the last interview about the previous collection, Con Amore (click here for the previous interview), you anticipated that this time the protagonist would be the Pearl. Can you tell us more about the reasons that led you to this choice? And if you had to identify an ideal recipient of the collection, who do you think it might be?
(Marta) Among the wonders that nature gives us, I have always considered pearls one of the greatest tools to enhance female beauty: softness, shine, royal perfection: I think they give further kindness and elegance to the wearer.
With this collection I wanted to give an answer to women who, while loving the pearl, did not recognize themselves in a style often trapped in rigid, too classic canons.
In my vision the pearl is instead fresh, young, but also intense thanks to the profound linearity of the shapes of the collection.
The idea was to create jewels that could be used every day and on any occasion, I think this is their strength: beautiful with jeans and a white shirt, charming with a cocktail dress.
(I) The collection actually develops on three lines:
Pure Pearls, Essential Micropearls and Linea Pearls.
How do they differ from each other and in which traits did you want to maintain their uniformity?
(M) Exactly, there are three complementary lines: Linea Pearls is designed for style lovers, where strength and sweetness coexist alternating with each other. Pure Pearls is for a romantic, fluid woman: the detail of the weights creates balance; Essential Micropearls is dedicated to the woman who makes sobriety, aesthetic and conceptual, a lifestyle choice.
All the lines have their own personality but in complementarity they can coexist and mutually enrich each other, giving life to further nuances. Let's say that the common trait is a new language in the use of the pearl, without neglecting those deep and rooted values that have made it so loved and iconic.
"The idea was to create jewels that could be used every day and on any occasion, I think this is their strength: beautiful with jeans and a white shirt, charming with a cocktail dress."
(I) Let's talk about design: how much study and how long does a collection like Sweet Pearls take?
(M) I started working on Sweet Pearls about a year ago: drawing, coordinating the lines of the collection, models, finding the raw material... it takes a long time!
(I) In fact, the ideation is not the only moment that requires time and patience. When you don't have to deal with pearls every day, one would believe that they can easily be found inside a shell, perhaps already ready to be worn around the neck!
Instead we know that this is absolutely not the case and that, on the contrary, there is a lot of research behind finding the right specimens...
(M) We are so used to speed that I sometimes find disbelief in people when they learn that it takes years to cultivate a pearl and that only less than 10% of those collected can be used in jewelry. And this is just the beginning of the manufacturing process.
It is often believed that the value of a pearl depends on the size and this is partly true, but few know that the opposite is also true: very small measures involve higher costs than average ones. In addition, pearl producers work in pairs (therefore in pairs equal to each other), while in my collection I reasoned with the number three and its multiples.
This has complicated not a little the finding of a quality raw material.
To conclude, inside the pearls I chose to use our chain (instead of the traditional cotton thread) to give greater solidity to each jewel: this entailed an additional difficulty: applying to a very small pearl - it is almost impossible to hold in hand - a remarkably large hole in relation to its overall volume.
(I) What can you tell us about the processing? What peculiarities make it so hardworking but also so unique and priceless?
(M) Most of the models designed for this collection, despite an apparent simplicity, are based on great technical complexity and meticulous craftsmanship. For example, we have chosen to use mechanical tractions and not glues for fixing the pearls and we have used high jewelery techniques such as threaded conical pins, to screw them to our lines. Always observing a 100% supply of COC (Chain of Custody) gold in order to guarantee total environmental sustainability.
"We have chosen to use mechanical, non-adhesive traction to secure the pearls and a 100% supply of COC (Chain of Custody) gold to ensure environmental sustainability."
How to clean Pearl Jewellery
(I) Finally, a piece of advice on a delicate subject that has never been treated with enough attention: the maintenance of pearl jewelry.
Do you have any recommendations for us?
(M) Pearls give a lot to a woman but they demand the same respect: I recommend not to use them to go to the sea, to the pool, to the spas and to play sports. Also be careful to remove them before any treatment when you go to the hairdresser or beautician. At home, get ready (cream, perfume, hairspray) and wear them only before going out. Avoid wearing them near other metals. And more simply, wipe them gently with a soft cloth after using them, to clean them of skin secretions.
Read our article on how to
perform your Maintenance of Jewelry with Pearls.